• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content

← cbs.dk

CBDS

CBDS

Business in Development Studies

  • Home
  • Blogs
    • Corporate Social Responsibility
    • Critical Debates
    • Entrepreneurship 
    • Global Value Chains
    • Green Transition
    • Industrialization
    • Humanitarianism
  • Podcasts
  • Contact
  • Show Search
Hide Search

Industrialization

The Belt and Road Initiative at Ten

25 October 2023

By Federico Jensen

This year marks the tenth-year anniversary of Xi Jinping’s proposal for an “economic belt along the silk road” while on a diplomatic mission to Kazakhstan, what would later become the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI) or One Belt One Road (OBOR) in Chinese (一带一路). Chinese state-owned firms, under the umbrella of the Belt and Road Initiative, have built pipelines, railroads, roads, ports, and other infrastructures, especially in regions that private investors deem too risky to invest. The Chinese government estimates that it has spent 1 trillion USD for the development of transportation and energy infrastructure and other infrastructure projects in over 3000 projects globally. This spree of infrastructure building has captivated policymakers focused on the rise of Chinese economic and political international influence. The BRI has also led to contentious global politics around investments and has intensified geopolitical competition between China and the US. This post discusses the last ten years of the BRI and the ways in which it is evolving.

Belt and Road Initiative as the cornerstone of Xi Jinping’s foreign policy

The Belt and Road Initiative (BRI) pledged massive infrastructural investment to enhance the connectivity of China with the rest of Asia, Africa, and globally. It also became discursively entrenched with the foreign policy strategy of Xi Jinping. Although other Chinese policymakers had already promoted the idea of outward Chinese investments, such as the ‘go out policy’ initiated by Jiang Zemin in 2000, the BRI was the first time that a Chinese outward investment strategy had been articulated directly as foreign policy (as stated in state council guidelines in 2015). The BRI was then imprinted into the Chinese communist party constitution in 2017 as a central element of foreign policy. In so doing, all layers of the Chinese government apparatus, and its economic arms: banks, and state-owned firms became involved in the development of infrastructure investments abroad.

The Belt and Road, simplified map
Source: https://denstoredanske.lex.dk/%22Belt_and_Road%22-initiativet;
license: CC BY SA 4.0.

Empty ports? Successes and failures of the BRI in its first ten years

Although much attention has been placed on massive ‘white elephant’ projects such as the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor and all its subprojects, the reality is that the projects included within the BRI framework vary dramatically in size and scope. At the same time, the success or failure of projects has been hard to determine. 

Apart from promised projects that have not yet materialized, as it is the case for example of Bagamoyo port, cancelled by Tanzanian authorities after a change in government (and now perhaps getting restarted after a new change of government in Tanzania), projects that have been constructed have had less than advertised results. For example, the much-discussed Gwadar port in Pakistan is one of the most used examples of infrastructure developments under the BRI not delivering expected economic results. Gwadar port not only has underperformed economically, as it has not provided a suitable alternative to the congested Karachi port, but it has also exacerbated the difficult political situation in the Balochistan region of Pakistan. The port is the center of many protests and is used as an image of the weakness of the Pakistani government and its subdued relationship with China. At the same time, many China-Pakistan Economic Corridor projects in the region surrounding the port continue to materialize, such as industrial parks and special economic zones, a highway linking Gwadar all the way to the Chinese border with Pakistan. As these other projects continue in the region, they could change the commercial landscape for the port. 

Finally, as many other scholars have discussed in relation to Chinese investments abroad, local agency is important. Not only had Gwadar port been on the planning table of Pakistani authorities for over 20 years, but the Pakistani government insisted on its inclusion as part of the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor even as Chinese commercial actors showed no interest in the project. This showcases both the way in which local authorities and local politics shape projects but also the way in which different Chinese firms and authorities have maneuvering room to decide which projects to be a part of within the fragmented Chinese institutional politics.

Gwadar Port – Source: Flickr – License: Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0).

The next ten years – new directions for the BRI

The 3rd Belt and Road Forum celebrated this October 17th and 18th in Beijing, marks the official celebration of the tenth anniversary. It did so by pledging 100 billion USD in new investments and by highlighting a shift in focus for the BRI. From pure infrastructure development to a focus on digital services, green development, and renewable energy projects as well as more ‘soft’ collaborations. For instance, one of the twenty new collaborations signed between China and Pakistan included a one-year agreement for knowledge transfer port development and management for the Gwadar port, indicating perhaps the focus of the BRI moving away from pure infrastructure building and into making existing investments commercially viable. 

Nonetheless, one key outcome of the 3rd Belt and Road Forum has been to highlight its continued relevance, particularly for the global south, with many heads of state present and making new investment deals with China. Even in the times of continued and growing geopolitical contestation between East and West and continued calls for decoupling or de-risking from China. The BRI forum reminds us to not underestimate the relevance of China for the global economy and global trade.

COSCO shipping ship docked at Port of Rotterdam – Source: the author.

Listen to the Business in Development Podcast and find out more!

The Belt and Road Initiative at ten, geopolitics and China’s role in global development

Professor Lindsay Whitfield from CBDS discusses the tenth anniversary of the Belt and Road Initiative, the contentious politics it engenders, and the role of massive Chinese infrastructural investments globally with Dr. Federico Jensen, external lecturer at Copenhagen Business School. In the episode, they discuss the origins of the Belt and Road Initiative, it’s economic and political successes and failures, and the role of local governments in investment receiving countries.

Listen in your favourite podcast app

Further reading: 

Jones, L, & Hameiri, S. (2021) Fractured China, How State Transformation is Shaping China’s Rise. Cambridge University Press. Cambridge

Lee, C. K. (2017). The Specter of Global China: Politics, Labor, and Foreign Investment in Africa. Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press.

Ye, M. (2020). The belt road and beyond: State-mobilized globalization in China: 1998–2018. Cambridge University Press. NY, USA

CBS favicon

Federico Jensen has recently finished his PhD at Copenhagen Business School. His academic work centers around the international political economy of maritime shipping and offshore industries. 


  • Newsletter
  • Linkedin
  • Facebook
  • Twitter

How and why firms in low-income countries seek to build capabilities in new export industries?

16 April 2023

by Ayelech T. Melese and Lindsay Whitfield

Industrialization is the main driver of higher per capita incomes and a rising standard of living in low-income countries. Industrialization may be catalyzed by foreign direct investment. However, it is sustained by national firms becoming internationally competitive in range of industries, which should increase in technological complexity as firms building their technological and organizational capabilities. 

In contemporary global production and trade systems, locally owned firms in low-income countries find themselves in an increasingly difficult situation. They have limited existing knowledge of the industry and thus face a large gap in the capabilities they have and those that are required to be internationally competitive. Over the past decades, the barriers to entry in even basic manufacturing and agriculture-based export industries have increased. These barriers to entry include stringent and fast changing requirements by Western buyers, strict proprietary rights, and stiff global competition from suppliers in other low and middle-income countries. Locally owned firms must build their capabilities but face big risks in doing so as they often have scarce financial resources, weak international networks, and operate in precarious business and political environments. 

In such a context, one would wonder what can motivate local firms to enter an export industry new to their country, invest in learning, and succeed in build their technological capabilities. Seeking to answer these questions, we examined the locally owned firms in Ethiopian floriculture export industry which emerged in the 1990s, following the coming of a new government into power and the subsequent policy shift from command to mixed economy. Local firms must master significant technological and organizational skills to run a cut-flower firm, which is more like manufacturing than agriculture.

Drawing extensively on the historical evidence, scholars of industrialization in East Asia emphasized that industrial policy has been the key driver of private investment and firm level learning. This literature significantly contributed in highlighting what the industrial policies should look like and how they should be customized to the twenty-first century’s context to achieve similar effect in low income countries in Africa and elsewhere. Notwithstanding the important contributions, the industrial policy literature has given limited attention to firm-level dynamics of learning and agency of firms in (re)allocating resources based on their own business strategies. 

Our examination of the Ethiopia’s floriculture export sector largely confirms the arguments of industrial policy scholars. The sector went through exponential growth during the period 2002 to 2008. This growth was driven by sector specific industrial policies that provided generous incentive packages and infrastructural support that spurred both local and foreign investment, but notably significantly lowered the entry barriers and risks for local investors as they sought to build the required capabilities. 

However, the sector did not keep the momentum of growth and technological upgrading for long. In the 2010s, as growth in the sector stagnated, the number of local firms declined significantly. Only fifteen local firms managed to survive and thrive, most which were part of family-owned diversified business groups. Our analysis shows that the local owners of cut-flower farms often sought to develop only the minimum capabilities needed to sustain their cut-flower exports. Government industrial policies which incentivized local entrepreneurs to invest in the sector did not entail performance standards that tied the financing and other support to export performance and thus firms had little incentive to continue to invest in learning. 

Scholars of global value chains (GVC) discussed the important role and potentials of GVC configurations to bolster learning and upgrading opportunities of local firms in low-income firms. Upgrading is often confined to a certain level as local supplier firms encounter various control mechanisms exercised by lead firms in the GVC. However, local firms can exercise their agency with a much broader scope that is often (implicitly) assumed. The case of Ethiopia’s cut-flower export industry shows that local firms can pursue growth paths within and across GVCs, as they are part of diversified business groups and firm owners make decisions not only about the growth of the cut-flower firm but also about the overall profitability of their business group. 

The mapping of the floriculture GVC below shows that flowers are traded in the Dutch auction, which remains the dominant channel, and through direct sales to wholesalers, supermarkets, and other retailers, which has become more important since the 1990s.  The specification of buyers in the direct sales channel depends on their end-markets and market segments. Consumers with special demands often buy flowers from specialized outlets such as florists and web-shops. 

Source: Adapted by the authors from ‘Product factsheet: fresh cut-flowers and foliage in the European specialized retail market,’ Centre for the Promotion of Imports from Developing Countries,  https://www.cbi.eu/sites/default/fles/market_information/researches/productfactsheet-europe-freshcut-fowers-foliage-retail-market-2016.pdf

By the time Ethiopia joined the global cut-flower industry, the abundant year-long supply was causing stiff competition and putting downward pressure on suppliers’ profit margins. Non-price competition such as reliability and consistency in terms of product quality, quantity and delivery was becoming more important. As a result, buyers’ requirements became more stringent to differentiate products, but also address growing consumer and non-governmental organizations’ concerns about labour and environmental issues on flower farms.

Ethiopia’s national firms chose various export trajectories combining different market channels and end-markets, while protecting or improving the overall profitability of their family-owned diversified business groups. These export trajectories dictated which capabilities they needed to build and to which level to keep their flower export firm internationally competitive and thus retain buyers.

In this context, owners’ decisions for their cut-flower firms and their growth paths were influenced by the limited resources of their diversified business groups and showed significant variations. Firm owners sometimes chose to invest less in building the capabilities of their flower export firms to release resources and managerial talents to other affiliate businesses or make investments in new domestic market industries. On the other hand, some family business groups transferred resources from their domestic market-focused firms to subsidize the costs of building capabilities in their flower export firms. 

The analysis also shows how the higher organizational and managerial demands of operating a firm in a competitive export industry like floriculture precipitated a move toward modern management practices in this first generation of family business groups in Ethiopia. These findings emphasize the need to consider local firms’ capabilities and position with family business groups when designing industrial policy.


Read more in our recently published article:  

Industrial policy, local firm growth paths, and capability building in low-income countries: lessons from Ethiopia’s floriculture export sector, Industrial and Corporate Change, advanced access.

Can African countries build competitive fiber-to-garment industries fit for the 21st century?

27 February 2023

by Lindsay Whitfield

The textile and apparel industry is a globalised industry characterised by a high degree of dependency and fragmentation in global supply chains. From the mid-20th century, cotton textile and apparel manufacturing production relocated from industrialised to developing countries, particularly in Asia, and was quickly followed by the emergence of the petrochemical industry and synthetic fibre production in East Asian countries, while South Asia continued to focus on cotton and natural fibres. Changes in international trade over the past 30 years fostered the textile and apparel global value chain dynamic. These changes were marked by opening trade borders, lowering tariffs, tax breaks or subsidies offered by various governments, and free trade agreements. Low labour costs and lower production costs have shaped the decisions of global actors to relocate their operations from one country to another. 

Current global trends are set to transform the global value chains of textiles and apparel again. These trends include (1)increasing production costs in China, (2) the drive to shorten supply chains post-Covid pandemic through nearshoring and seeking countries with yarn-to-garment (or vertical) production capabilities, and (3) the sustainability shift. These trends are leading global apparel buyers to diversify their sourcing away from China and Asia more generally and to consider new supply bases. 

Global apparel buyers are no longer concerned only with cost, quality and speed to market when making sourcing decisions. They now must balance those criteria with sustainability goals. The climate crisis and the high contribution of the global fashion industry to greenhouse gas emissions are putting pressure on industry players to make radical changes in production processes. While consumers are increasingly demanding sustainability, the greatest pressure is coming from European country governments and the European Union Commission. Notably, existing and expected EU regulations have increased market demand for alternative sustainable fibres and textile production technologies.

As a result, new fibre and recycling technologies are in a phase of fast innovation to produce more sustainable and circular man-made fibres. The raw material for clothing production will become manufactured fibres that rely on advancements in chemical technologies and biofabrication. Virgin cotton will be of less importance, as it is replaced by natural fibres that are less resource intensive and by man-made cellulosic fibres that feel like cotton. In the transition stage, cotton will move to organic and regenerative as well as become blended with other natural and man-made cellulosic fibres. Future fibres will have a high technology content and require licensing technology, both man-made cellulosic fibres and the new wave of synthetics that seek to replace polymers.

Currently, African countries export very little of what is traded within apparel global supply chains and across the African continent, except in the case of cotton, but import a large amount of what the rest of the world produces. Africa’s fabric and apparel production is biased towards cotton, especially in yarn and fabric production, with little participation in production and export of man-made fiber, yarn and fabric. Most apparel exports from the continent come from North Africa, followed far behind by East and Southern Africa. Apparel exports from the African continent go largely to Europe and then North America.

Productive capabilities in the sector in Africa remain low as the continent is largely a net importer of textile and apparel products. A couple of African countries have developed industrial capabilities in textiles and apparel, but most of it has been in the apparel segment and relies heavily on imported fabrics from Asian countries. A significant share of African apparel exports comes from North Africa, followed far behind by East and Southern Africa. West and Central African countries do not have significant apparel exports, and West Africa predominantly exports cotton fibres. 

Most apparel imports on the continent come from China. Chinese imports have largely displaced imports from other Asian countries and the rest of the world but have not substantially displaced intra-African trade, which was already small in 2000 but has shrunk even further. Currently, only 8% of Africa’s textile and apparel imports are supplied by other African suppliers.

African countries have the opportunity to build sustainable textile and apparel industries from the start, which can give them a competitive advantage. The cost of renewable energy technology is falling and renewable energy technologies to power industries are evolving. New fibre and recycling technologies also offer a window of opportunity to leapfrog into the next generation of technologies. Taking advantage of this window of opportunity requires that African governments look forward and not backward, that they think in terms of building new and not rebuilding the existing textile industries. 

African textile and apparel domestic and regional value chains should be based on mastering the next generation of fibre production and recycling technologies. Such a strategy involves taking risks to invest in building the knowledge and skills required for this new technology, but not taking risks will mean that African countries miss the opportunity to move to the technological frontier. Furthermore, African countries can go beyond becoming competitive in the new textile and apparel global supply chains but also use them to drive broader green industrialization processes. 

Such a strategy also involves building diversified regional textile bases as well as regional value chains, which can harness the efforts of more economies and larger market demand as well as create a stronger platform of capabilities with which to engage in global export markets. A diversified regional textile base would make it easier for locally owned apparel firms to emerge and provide the opportunity to move into higher value products as well as move into design of fabrics.

The capital requirements of establishing textile mills and vertically integrated factories from spinning to fabric to garment are very high, and there is limited knowledge in most African countries on how to operate the most modern textile equipment and produce export-quality fabric. Therefore, the first wave of new investments to create a textile base will have to be led by foreign investment. Industrial policy should not be just about attracting foreign investment by providing what they want but also attracting the kind of foreign direct investment that can build globally competitive textile and apparel industries. For example, the Togolese government has started implementing its strategy centres on an eco-industrial park (PIA) with vertically integrated knit factories established through a public-private partnership with Arise Integrated Industrial Platform.

But foreign investment must lead to technology transfer in the form of skilled textile technicians and managers as well as the business acumen side of organising and managing textile and apparel firms. A key part of the industrial policy approach should include assisting local firms in leveraging technology from these foreign firms. Technology is not actually ‘transferred’ but rather must be ‘leveraged’, and to do so; local firms must build their capabilities. The actual process of technology leverage takes place through various forms of investments and contractual relations between foreign and local firms. 


For more information and analysis of African textile and apparel industries, industrial policy, and implications for on-going negotiations in the African Continental Free Trade Area, see:

Lindsay Whitfield, “Current Capabilities and Future Potential of African Textile and Apparel Value Chains: Focus on West Africa, CBDS Working Paper 2022/3, Centre for Business and Development Studies, Copenhagen Business School. 

CBDS Working Paper, Policy Brief & Podcast

Industrializing through global value chains? The case of the South African automotive industry

17 January 2022

Tobias Wuttke and Lindsay Whitfield

When trying to come up with lessons for developing countries that want to industrialize today, people usually refer back to the success of East Asia. But 40 years have passed since South Korea and Taiwan industrialized through exporting and import substitution. Countries trying to industrialize today face a world of globally fragmented production, a world of global value chains (GVCs). The question that has come to the forefront both in academic discussions as well as in policy circles is whether GVC participation can deliver for low-income countries what exporting did for South Korea and Taiwan. South Africa’s integration into the automotive GVC over the past 25 years makes for an interesting case study to shed some light on this question. The development of the South African auto industry has been a story of success and failure at the same time, not least because of the difficulties associated with industrializing in a world of GVCs.

South Africa is the only country in Africa, next to Morocco, that has an automotive industry worth speaking of. It produces 600,000 cars per year, 70% of which are exported, 3 out of 4 of them to Europe. The South African Department of Trade, Industry, and Competition consistently implemented an automotive industrial policy that provided investment support to the foreign-owned automotive assemblers and later support to foreign and locally owned component manufacturers as well. These industrial policies made support for foreign direct investment in the sector conditional on auto assemblers exporting cars and on using some degree of local content.

On the surface, the South African government seems to have followed the industrial policy playbook of the developmental states of the second half of the 20th Century, as illustrated by Alice Amsden. However, the automotive industry has failed to play the role of a leading sector for economic development that it did in South Korea and Taiwan. This is because South Africa’s industry lacks locally owned firms participating at the technological frontier in the industry and it lacks significant linkages with other industries in the country. These limitations result from insufficient industrial policy to support local firms and from the ways in which the automotive global value chain has evolved since the 1990s.

Volkswagen South Africa Plant in Uitenhage, Eastern Cape

The automotive industry in South Africa makes up 6-7% of the country’s GDP, roughly a quarter of manufacturing output, and employs more than 100,000 people in vehicle and component production. There are three automotive hubs in the country: Gauteng with Ford, Nissan and BMW; the Eastern Cape with VW, Mercedes-Benz and Isuzu; and Durban with Toyota. In addition to the assemblers, South Africa has attracted investment by many of the largest multinational component suppliers, such as Continental, ZF, Bosch, MA Automotive, Dana Spicer, Benteler, etc. There are also around 200 locally owned component manufacturing firms engaged in the automotive value chain.

Passenger vehicle assemblers in South Africa (Source: NAAMSA)

The automotive industry has lots of potential for backward linkages. A car is made of 10,000 different parts, from various materials – steel, aluminium, plastics, glass, leather, textiles, rubber. Automotive production is characterized by just-in-time (JIT) and just-in-sequence (JIS) requirements, which means that some local footprint is always established once volumes go beyond pure kit assembly. But on the other hand, the automotive GVC is also characterized by follow design and follow sourcing, meaning, for example, that Volkswagen designs their car in Wolfsburg, produces that exact car in its plants all over the world without much local design adaptation, and asks its established large suppliers from developed countries to set up subsidiaries next to its plants in developing country locations to fulfil the JIT and JIS requirements.

This used to be different. Up to the late 1980s, cars were locally designed, and significant and distinct local supplier networks supplied materials and parts to the automotive assemblers in developing countries. This situation has been superseded by the almost total ubiquity of the ‘global car’, with follow design and follow sourcing, since the 1990s. In the case of South Africa, in the early 1990s, several of the assemblers and most of the component firms were partially or fully locally owned. This had already changed by the mid-2000s with all seven assemblers as well as many of the component firms being in full foreign ownership.

The automotive assemblers in South Africa do not undertake local R&D. They assemble vehicles that have been designed in their R&D headquarters. The same is true for multinational component suppliers. In addition to that, none of the locally owned supplier firms in South Africa conduct their own design or product development. Instead, they produce subcomponents based on design drawings either from the assemblers directly or from subsidiaries of multinational suppliers also operating in South Africa. The most common components that locally owned firms produce are plastic injection mouldings, metal pressings, and trim components. The total lack of local R&D is very concerning, given the historical importance of the development of innovation capabilities in local companies in successful catch-up industrializers. It is not unique to South Africa. As Richard Doner and colleagues show in their recent book on the automotive industry, not even Thailand – which has an auto industry more than three times the size of South Africa – has managed to develop local R&D capabilities.

Plastic moulded component (Principle Plastics); metal pressed component (CRH); trim component (Acoustex).

Locally owned suppliers in South Africa complain about low-profit margins, difficulties to access funding, excessive demands from their buyers regarding certifications, audits, open-book-costing, and production flexibility. They still decide to service the auto industry because it has high and steady demand, as vehicle exports mean production volumes are much higher than they would be if firms were producing only for the domestic market. Domestic demand for vehicles is limited by low incomes and high inequality and has stagnated since 2008.

Looking further upstream, the backward linkages from automotive assembly and component production to the local material industries in South Africa have also been disappointing. South Africa has a local steel mill, two large local polymer producers, and a local aluminium smelter. Nevertheless, by far the majority of the materials for automotive production are imported. It is a consequence of follow sourcing and the fact that material requirements for automotive are incredibly high. BMW does not use the same polymeric material for a car bumper as Mercedes-Benz does. They all have their own standards, formulations, blends, and intellectual property around this. This hyper-diversity of materials reduces the scale of production and thus makes firm-level investments into the local production of materials less attractive.

The scale of production in the South African automotive industry – albeit exporting 70% of final output – is still insufficient to localize more sophisticated components like engines and electronics, materials production, as well as tooling and machinery (almost all tooling is imported; all machinery is fully imported). In contrast to exports of vehicles, exports of components are low (with the exception of catalytic converters based on locally available platinum-group metals). The government tries to tackle this scale problem. The South African Automotive Masterplan aims at upping vehicle production volumes from 600,000 to 1.4 million by 2035. Whether this can be achieved remains to be seen. It is certainly true that if production volumes could be increased, this would help achieve further localization. Some countries with larger production volumes like Thailand have for example managed to localize the production of engines and transmissions (for a comparison of localization achievements of different countries, see here).

Ford Ranger on the road in Johannesburg. The pick-ups – locally called bakkies – are the most common vehicle produced in South Africa.

The South African picture is not unique. The requirements to get some of the historically important elements of industrialization going, like inter-industry linkages and nurturing innovation capabilities in locally owned firms, have increased substantially compared to the time when South Korea and Taiwan started their automotive industries. The gap between incumbents and followers has widened. Doner and his colleagues show that out of the top 100 global automotive suppliers in 2019, only three came from countries other than from Western Europe, the US, Japan, South Korea and China (Motherson from India, Nemak from Mexico and Iochpe-Maxion from Brazil). Incumbent lead firm power in both assembly and component manufacturing is huge. They undertake most R&D and orchestrate global sourcing of materials and components. Other research demonstrates that the denationalization of automotive industries is commonplace across developing countries, see e.g. here and here.

While it has been emphasized in policy circles that the emergence of GVCs has made it easier for developing countries to enter export markets for manufactured goods and led to increases in local firms’ productivity, the case of the automotive GVC illustrates two major limitations of GVC-based industrialization. The potential for the development of inter-industry linkages and innovation capabilities in developing countries participating in the automotive GVC is undermined by excessive incumbent power, follow design, and follow sourcing.

This blog is based on the PhD research carried out by Tobias Wuttke. The PhD project is on the South African automotive industry, researching the technological capabilities of local component manufacturing firms, linkages from the industry to other domestic economic sectors, and the role of industrial policy. Primary data collected throughout 2021 both online and in South Africa includes semi-structured interviews with vehicle assemblers operating in South Africa, materials producers, multinational automotive component manufacturers, locally owned South African automotive component manufacturers, as well as several interviews with policymakers and industry experts. Some of the research was conducted together with Lorenza Monaco of GERPISA, ENS Paris Saclay.

Tobias Wuttke is a Ph.D. Fellow at Roskilde University, Department of Social Sciences and Business.

Lindsay Whitfield is Professor of Business and Development at the Centre for Business and Development Studies, within the Department of Management, Society and Communication at Copenhagen Business School.

Ethiopia’s apparel export industry, the Tigray conflict, and US preferential market access

2 December 2021

By Lindsay Whitfield and Felix Maile

Earlier last month, Ethiopia was at the center of global attention. The federal Ethiopian government announced a nationwide state of emergency on November 2, as the now one-year-long conflict between the federal government defence forces (and regional militias) and forces led by the Tigrayan People’s Liberation Front (TPLF) threatened to spread from the Tigray region across the country, including the capital city Addis Ababa. The same day, US President Biden suspended Ethiopia’s duty-free access to the US, based on ‘gross violations of human rights by all involved parties in the conflict’. These two developments could mark a turning point for Ethiopia’s emerging apparel export industry, which was labelled the ‘next global sourcing hub’ for the global fashion industry, but also as a potential catalyst for broader industrialization in the country. In the course of the EthApparel research project, we had the chance to speak to some apparel export firms in Ethiopia on what the conflict and the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) suspension means for the future of the industry in Ethiopia.

Ambitious strategy, challenging implementation

With global fashion brands and retailers aiming to diversify their sourcing base away from China and Bangladesh, Ethiopia seemed to constitute a perfect alternative sourcing location. It offered duty-free access both to the EU and the US market; low production costs related to wage labor, electricity, and water; and the potential to source inputs locally. Additionally, the Ethiopian government provided strategic support to the sector through fiscal and financial incentives as well as the construction of dedicated industrial parks, such as the flagship park in southern Hawassa that opened in 2017. These industrial policies attracted global buyers including PVH Corp., H&M, Calzedonia, and The Children’s Place, which in turn encouraged some of their major suppliers from South Asia and East Asia to take factory sheds in the industrial parks. The Ethiopian government expected apparel exports to generate scarce foreign exchange and significant employment for its growing population, in the second most populous country in Sub-Saharan Africa, as well as constitute an entry point for broader industrialization.

Map of Ethiopia, with the locations of the industrial parks (IP)

While the initial hype, which was shared by the global buyers, their supplier firms and the Ethiopian government, was substantiated by impressive growth numbers, expectations were not fully met. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, apparel exports grew from $13m in 2010 to $164m in 2019, and employment in the apparel export created jobs for around 72,000 workers by mid-2019. However, these figures are significantly below the targets set by the Ethiopian government within its Growth and Transformation Plan II, which envisioned much higher export revenues ($ 779m) and higher employment numbers of 170,000 for the textile and apparel export sector by 2020.

Inside a factory shed at Hawassa Industrial Park

This lower-than-expected performance can be attributed to different factors. The interest of global buyers stalled after 2017, making it more difficult for the government to fill the sheds in industrial parks that were still being built. The waning interest of buyers occurred as the somewhat naïve narrative of a ‘large, abundant and cheap’ labor force in Ethiopia propagated by the Ethiopian government proved to be more complex. Labor turnover was high and productivity low in existing factories, and new supplier firms found it difficult to source labor: workers were not lining up at their doors, as the government promised. Furthermore, most inputs had to be imported, and transport times were long from land-locked Ethiopia, resulting in long lead times from when buyers placed orders to when they were received. Although more foreign input and textile firms were in the process of being established, locally owned textile, accessory, and packaging firms found it difficult to meet the required quality standards, without direct support.

These shortcomings were acknowledged by the government, which was making efforts to address them, but they were cut short first by the COVID-19 pandemic and then the outbreak of civil war.

Quick COVID-19 recovery, but spreading conflict was the critical turning point

The year 2020 was one of the toughest for apparel global value chains, as store closures in the US and Europe during the COVID-19 pandemic and related order reductions by buyers put massive pressure on governments, firms and workers across apparel supplier countries. This also partly applied to Ethiopia, where exports dropped by around 50% and employment by 10% in mid-2020. However, production in the apparel sector quickly recovered to pre-pandemic levels, as orders picked up again from September 2020 onwards. Furthermore, the outbreak of the conflict in the Tigray region in November 2020 led to an immediate closure of the Mekelle Industrial Park in Tigray, but production continued at the other industrial parks.

Mekelle industrial park, which was closed after the outbreak of the conflict on November 4, 2020

Global fashion brands sourcing from Ethiopia did not seem to show much reaction to the conflict and the related reports on human rights violations, and rather remained in a ‘wait and see’ position as long as the conflict remained limited to the Tigray region. Paradoxically, there were even new investments by manufacturers from China, and some suppliers in Bole Lemi industrial park reported to make profit for the first time in 2021 since they started operations in Ethiopia back in 2016.

Notably, then, it was the US announcement of Ethiopia’s suspension from duty-free access to the US market that changed supplier and buyer perceptions of Ethiopia as a sourcing location. Suppliers we spoke with in Bole Lemi industrial park were now questioning whether they would continue their operations in Ethiopia in 2022, despite full order books. This is mainly due to their overwhelming dependence on the US market, which is the destination for around two thirds of Ethiopia’s apparel exports. Some supplier firms even produce entirely for the US market. With the loss of preferential market access under AGOA, these firms will have to pay around 30-35% customs on their respective goods in the US market.

Shifting to the European market — where preferential market access still exists — is a limited option for most firms that we interviewed because they specialize in bulk orders of basic products to US retail chains. Changing their business strategy to one supplying the more fashion-oriented EU market would require time and additional investments. Thus, moving production to other African countries with duty-free access to the US, such as Kenya, is a more feasible option for most firms. The sunk costs in apparel assembly production are not high, especially when factory sheds are rented in government-owned industrial parks and have not been built by the supplier.

Factory sheds at Hawassa Industrial Park, Hawassa, Ethiopia

The further escalation of the conflict in recent weeks has caused additional fear among these apparel suppliers that the fighting, which is spreading southward, may lead to a cut of the railway connections to the port in Djibouti, from where Ethiopian apparel is shipped to the end destinations, or even reach the industrial park. In mid-November, the anchor tenant of the Hawassa Industrial Park, PVH Corp., announced the closure of its joint venture factory due to the spread of the conflict.

Map of Ethiopia showing the rail line from Addis Ababa to the Djibouti port (the blue line) and the major apparel industrial parks in Hawassa, Bole Lemi, Kombolcha and Mekelle

The future is bleak

The Ethiopian government has criticized the US intervention as a biased and ‘misguided’ decision, ‘threatening the livelihood of 200,000 low-income families, mostly women who have got nothing to do with the conflict’. The government also pointed to the fact that previous human rights violations under the TPLF, which governed the country prior to 2018 when political protests led to a shuffle of leadership within the EPRDF coalition government, did not impede Ethiopia’s AGOA eligibility. At the same time, the US government made clear that maintaining Ethiopia’s duty-free access from January 1 onwards would require the allowance of UN agencies to investigate human rights violations, and to end the blockade of humanitarian supply to the Tigray region.

The solution to the spreading conflict, the AGOA controversy, and the survival of Ethiopia’s nascent apparel export industry is a ceasefire between the Ethiopian government and the TPLF-led forces, the resumption of humanitarian aid to the Tigray region, and political negotiations. While there are initial signs that point to a possible diplomatic solution of the conflict under AU mediation, these hopes remain marginal given intensified fights at the frontline. Furthermore, the extent to which ethnic sentiments and propaganda has caused polarization and the spread of hatred in the country is worrying and makes future peace and reconciliation a complex task.

This blog post is part of the research project ‘Decent Work and GVC-based industrialization in Ethiopia’ (EthApparel), funded by the Danida Fellowship Centre. EthApparel asks whether Ethiopia’s integration in the apparel GVC can drive industrialization that is sustainable both from the perspective of supplier firms and workers. The project team brings together researchers from Copenhagen Business School and Roskilde University, Denmark; Open University, UK; University of Vienna, Austria; and Mekelle University, Ethiopia.

Lindsay Whitfield is professor of business and development at the Centre for Business and Development Studies, within the Department of Management, Society and Communication at Copenhagen Business School.

Felix Maile is a PhD student from the Department of Development Studies, University of Vienna. His research focuses on the link between global value chains, financial markets and financialization. In his dissertation, he addresses the question in which way financial markets and investors shape the strategies of transnational fashion corporations, and how this affects the value capture of supplier firms in Ethiopia.

Further Reading

Oya, C., & Schaefer, F. (2021). The politics of labour relations in global production networks: collective action, industrial parks, and local conflict in the Ethiopian apparel sector. World Development, 146, 105564.

Whitfield, L., Staritz, C., & Morris, M. (2020). Global Value Chains, Industrial Policy and Economic Upgrading in Ethiopia’s Apparel Sector. Development and Change, 51(4), 1018-1043.

Whitfield, L. and Staritz, C. (2021). The Learning Trap in Late Industrialization: Local Firms and Capability Building in Ethiopia’s Apparel Export Industry’. Journal of Development Studies 57(6): 980-1000.

Copyright © 2025 · Copenhagen Business School

  • Accessibility Statement
  • Privacy Policy
  • Cookies