By Lisa Ann Richey and Alexander Maxelon
In recent years, ethical consumption has gained significant traction in the global market. Companies like Carcel, a luxury brand selling clothing made by incarcerated women, have emerged, promising consumers the opportunity to not only purchase products but also to ‘help’ marginalized individuals. This fusion of capitalism and humanitarianism blurs the lines between consumption and compassion, reshaping exploitation into acts of gendered solidarity.
Commodifying Compassion: The Making of Ethical Imaginaries
The commodification of compassion lies at the heart of Carcel’s business model. By linking consumption with ‘helping,’ the company transforms exploitation into a narrative of sisterhood solidarity. Through meticulous branding and storytelling, Carcel portrays itself as a beacon of ethical consumption, appealing to consumers’ desire to make a positive impact while indulging in luxury. For example, each item produced by Carcel is labelled with the name of the maker and the place of production, creating a personal connection between the consumer and the incarcerated women who craft the garments. Names like Jane and Edith from Cusco, Peru, stitched onto Carcel’s clothing, evoke a sense of individuality and human connection, reinforcing the idea of empowering these women through meaningful work. Through these branding strategies, Carcel bridges the gap between consumption and social responsibility, positioning itself as a catalyst for positive change in the world.
Gendered Practices and Unfree Labour: The Reality Behind the Imaginary
Behind the veil of sisterhood solidarity lies the harsh reality of unfree labour and gendered exploitation. Women incarcerated in Peruvian prisons find themselves employed in manufacturing goods for companies like Carcel, trapped in a cycle of poverty and incarceration. Despite the rhetoric of empowerment, the prison becomes a site of exploitation, where inmates are coerced into labour under the guise of rehabilitation. For these women, the wages earned from their labour are often insufficient to cover basic necessities, forcing them to use their meagre earnings to pay for food and other essentials within the prison walls. Moreover, the power dynamics within the prison compound exacerbate their vulnerability as they navigate oppressive conditions and face arbitrary disciplinary measures from prison authorities. While Carcel’s branding may present an image of empowerment and sisterhood, the reality for these incarcerated women is one of exploitation and hardship, highlighting the stark disparity between the company’s marketing narrative and the lived experiences of its workers.
The Illusion of Sisterly Solidarity: Unveiling the Truth
While consumers may feel empowered by their participation in ethical consumption, it is essential to examine who truly benefits from these practices. Scholars highlight the intricate web of relationships between corporations, non-profits, and consumers, where humanitarianism becomes a form of profit generation. In this neoliberal landscape, businesses capitalize on the sentiments of compassion, perpetuating systems of inequality and exploitation. Despite the romanticized narrative of sisterly solidarity, the reality of prison labour remains bleak. Carcel’s bankruptcy in 2021 exposed the fragility of this model, revealing the exploitative nature of ethical consumption. Behind the facade of empowerment lies a system built on inequality and exploitation, where incarcerated women are used as commodities to fuel capitalist agendas.
Read the whole article right here: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/03085147.2024.2321778
Lisa Ann Richey, Professor of Globalization, Department of Management, Society and Communication, Copenhagen Business School
Alexander Maxelon, student assistant, Department of Management, Society and Communication at Copenhagen Business School
Picture by Engin Akyurt – https://unsplash.com/de/fotos/nahaufnahme-eines-astes-sWfnJVQ0occ